What Makes Jewellery Fine? Materials and Standards Explained
Fine jewellery is made from precious metal, such as gold, platinum or sterling silver, set with genuine gemstones, natural or laboratory-grown, and built to be worn for years. Fashion jewellery uses base metals with glass, crystal or plastic. "Demi-fine" is a newer term for pieces in sterling silver or gold vermeil with real stones. None of these words is legally defined, so the reliable test is what the piece is made of and whether that can be verified.
Three tiers, roughly
| Fashion | Demi-fine | Fine | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Metal | Brass, copper, alloy, sometimes plated | Sterling silver, gold vermeil | Solid gold, platinum, sterling silver |
| Stones | Glass, crystal, cubic zirconia | Genuine or lab-grown gems | Genuine or lab-grown gems |
| Hallmark | None | 925 for silver | 925, 585, 750, 950 |
| Made to last | A season or two | Years with care | Decades |
Metal: read the hallmark
Precious metals are stamped with their purity in parts per thousand. 925 is sterling silver, 92.5% pure silver; 585 is 14 karat gold and 750 is 18 karat; 950 is platinum. In Italy, as in many European countries, precious metal sold as such must carry its purity stamp. No stamp is a reason to ask questions.
Finishes matter too. Rhodium, a platinum-group metal, is plated over silver and white gold to brighten it and slow tarnish. Gold vermeil is a thick layer of gold over sterling silver; we explain the difference from plated and gold-filled pieces in a separate guide.
Stones: genuine, lab-grown, imitation
A genuine gemstone is a natural mineral. A laboratory-grown stone has the same chemistry and structure as its natural counterpart: lab-grown diamond is diamond, lab-grown moissanite is moissanite. An imitation, or simulant, only looks like something else, as glass or cubic zirconia can look like diamond. All three can be honest products; the problem is only ever a stone described as something it is not.
For a piece worn every day, hardness is the practical test. Household dust contains quartz, at 7 on the Mohs scale, so softer stones scratch and dull over time. Moissanite, at 9.25, and diamond, at 10, are well above it.
Construction: where quality hides
- Settings. Count the prongs and look at their tips: they should be even, smooth and sit over the stone's edge. Six prongs hold a marquise or pear more securely than four.
- Pavé. Small stones should sit level, evenly spaced and tightly held, with no gaps.
- Finishing. Run a finger inside the band and around the gallery. Fine pieces feel smooth everywhere, including where no one looks.
- Clasps and closures. They should close firmly with a deliberate action.
Documentation and promises
Look for a description that names the metal and stone precisely, a certificate or grading report for the main stones, a clear returns policy and a warranty. Each Luhusati piece names its metal and stone on the product page, carries a GRA report for its moissanite, and comes with a lifetime warranty on the stone's optical properties.
Before you buy: a short checklist
- What exactly is the metal, and is it hallmarked?
- What exactly is the stone, and how hard is it?
- Is there a certificate or report?
- How are the stones set, and how is it finished?
- What happens if something goes wrong?