Gold Vermeil vs Gold Plated vs Gold Filled
All three have real gold on the surface; what differs is the metal underneath and the amount of gold. Gold vermeil is sterling silver coated with gold of at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick, under the US FTC Jewelry Guides. Gold plated can be any base metal with a far thinner layer. Gold filled bonds a thick layer of gold, at least 1/20 of the total weight, to a base metal by heat and pressure.
The three, compared
| Gold vermeil | Gold plated | Gold filled | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Base metal | Sterling silver (925) | Usually brass or copper | Usually brass |
| How the gold is applied | Electroplated | Electroplated | Bonded by heat and pressure |
| Minimum gold (US FTC) | 10K, 2.5 microns | 10K, 0.175 microns ("gold electroplate") | 10K, 1/20 of total weight |
| If the gold wears through | Precious silver shows | Base metal shows, may discolour skin | Base metal shows |
| Durability | Good, years with care | Short to moderate | Very good |
Gold vermeil
Vermeil, pronounced ver-may, is the French word for gilded silver. In the United States the FTC Guides allow the term only for sterling silver coated on all significant surfaces with gold of at least 10 karat and at least 2.5 microns thick, about a hundred millionths of an inch. That is over fourteen times the minimum for ordinary gold electroplate. Two things set it apart: a thicker layer of gold, and a precious, skin-friendly metal beneath it.
Gold plated
Gold plating covers a broad range. The FTC treats 0.175 microns of at least 10 karat gold as the minimum for "gold electroplate"; anything thinner is gold flashed or gold washed, and "heavy gold electroplate" starts at 2.5 microns. Most plated fashion jewellery uses a brass or copper base. When a thin layer wears through, which on a ring can take months, the base metal shows and can leave a green mark on the skin.
Gold filled
Despite the name, gold-filled jewellery is not filled with gold. A sheet of karat gold is bonded to a base-metal core by heat and pressure, and the gold must make up at least 1/20 of the item's total weight. The layer is many times thicker than plating, so gold-filled pieces wear well, but the core is usually brass and the technique suits chains and wire better than stone settings.
A note for Europe
There is no EU-wide legal definition of vermeil, and most reputable houses follow the FTC standard. France is the exception, and stricter: its consumer authority, the DGCCRF, reserves "vermeil" for silver covered with at least 5 microns of gold of 750 thousandths (18 karat), and "plaqué or" for at least 3 microns; anything thinner may only be sold as "doré", gilded. Wherever you buy, you can check the hallmark: genuine sterling silver is stamped 925.
Caring for vermeil
- Put it on last, after perfume, lotion and hairspray.
- Take it off to swim, shower, exercise or clean; chlorine and sweat are hard on gold layers.
- Wipe with a soft, untreated cloth. Avoid polishing cloths impregnated with compound and anything abrasive, which removes gold.
- Store each piece separately in its pouch so harder stones and metals do not scratch it.
- Rings and bracelets take the most friction and will show wear first; vermeil can be re-plated by a jeweller.
Vermeil at Luhusati
Our gold pieces are gold vermeil over 925 sterling silver: Thaïs and Serelle, the chain of the Luce necklace, and gold options of Astra Marquise and Eleonore. Our silver pieces are 925 sterling with a rhodium finish.